Day 14: Plus 32 today, minus 32 tomorrow

Well guys, this is it...me and fungus are headed home today. After two weeks of jungles, genocide and temples, we are finally leaving Cambodia for Home. It was an incredible trip and I honestly wish I could've stayed longer.

Weve got a 31 hour trip home, first stopping in Taipei and then Vancouver, and then finally back to Stoon.  I'm definately looking forward to my own bed, but I'm sad that the great adventure is over...at least for now ;)...i have a feeling well be coming back sometime next year!

Anywho! See ya all soon! So many stories to tell and sooooooooooo many more photos to show! ....plus i get to buy my Christmas tree when I get home! Yaaaay!

Toodles guys!

Days 10-13: The Gibbon Experiance!!!

Wow Wow wow guys! Unbelievable few days!!!

We're sitting in the Siem Reap airport right now waiting for our flight back to Phnom Penh so I thought I'd take a few minutes to give you guys an update on our amazing time at the Gibbon Experiance (and don't worry Andrew, I got you a pamphlet!)

So Gibbon...unbelievable time. We took an overnight bus from Luang Prabang to a small town in Bokeo Province, Huaxai. Huaxai is the Launching ground for the Gibbon Experiance and is a tad difficult to get to as the only airport recently closed down. So now you have 3 options to get there, a slow two day ride down the Mekong, a terrifying 6 hour ride down the Mekong in a dugout canoe, or a 12 hour bus ride. Keerit had really really wanted to do the 6 hour trip but I was a little hesitant cuz i didn't want to end up at the bottom of the river,(a decision I'm now kind of regretting if I'm honest).

We got to the Gibbon office and almost immediatly departed for the nature reserve in a series of tuk tuk hiluxes (my two favorite vehicles put together!). The drive in itself was quite amusing as we had to cross a small river in the truck and then got completely covered in brick red iron dust on the way to the village. Then it was a two hour (almost entirely uphill) trek through bamboo jungle to the Zip Line network and into the tree houses. 

We eventually got trained up on how to use the ziplines (id never done it before) and then trekked through the jungle with our guides. The jungle itself was amazing as there are birds chirping everywhere and the foliage is just some of the most stunning I've ever seen.The path is extremely narrow and very slippery on account of the recent monsoons, so I definatly biffed it a couple of times. And I'll admit the trekkjng was a tad tougher than I had expected especially as most of us were wearing light running shoes and i was dealing with a VERY unpleasant stomach bug from the day before(thank god for antibiotics!). But there was just so much to look at and do that overall it was amazing.

So we eventyally got split into 2 groups as the tree houses can only house 8 people at a time, and Keerit and I joined the crew in Treehouse 1. And man was that ever a good decision. For one thing treehouse 1 is about three times the size of the other tree houses and And as it turns out is also the best place to see Gibbons (the other houses never saw any). Also it turns out that our treemates were pretty awsome, with 2 cool American Girls and the cutest French couple you could imagine joining us in our house. It was great. The 6 of us would play cards late into the night while drinking Laotion tea spiked with homemade whiskey and condenced milk (we all hit a new low that night). Then we'd all get up with the sun rise to try to see the gibbons in the trees. It was pretty great.

The gibbons themselves are quite elusive, and we only managed to see them on our last day there...at around 5 am Thibault and Marie Jo woke us up, saying they could see a couple from thier tent. Until that point we'd only heard them in the distance as our valley is usually too misty to see more than some movement in the trees. But that morning the mist had risen a little earlier than usual and we were greated by a mom and her little guy flying amongst the tree tops. It was amazing. Within a half hour 2 other young males and a TINY baby sister showed up with thier father (you can tell the sexes based on thier coloring...the males are jet black while the females are more cinnamon colored) so the 6 of us sat on the floor of our house and gazed out at them. It was quite a moment for all of us. The other tree houses never saw the Gibbons as they are quite a distance away from where we were...you have to hike almost 40 minutes to even access the ziplines that get you to those houses, so when I say we were secluded, I mean we were REALLY secluded.

The tree house itself is exactly what you'd imagine it would be. Everything was open air, including the 'washroom', save for a tin roof and mosquito nets that kept debris from pelting us as we slept. We were perched about 50 m above the jungle floor in a sprawling tree and the only way in or out was via zip line. In the evening yoy could hear huge bats fly in and out of the freehouse, but we were all huddled in our mosquito nets thst we didnt really worry at all. We were left almosr entirely on our own in the evenings and mornings too as the guides slept about 45 minutes away in the nearby mess tent and rarely visited outside of instruction times. Meals were Ziplined in and often consisted of some soggy vedgetables, rice and Laotion coconut gummies (honestly, the food was prob the only disappointing part of the whole experiance as it was often tasteless and really not enough for 6 adults). But you make do cuz everything else is so incredie. Being in the house was a bit unnerving at first when you realize that there is absolutely no way you'll ever make it back to the village in the night if you needed too, but after the first couple hours you just settle down and really enjoy it.  There is no electricty in the houses as the directors want to keep things as natural as possible, but They do have a couple of solar powered light bulbs in the communal area and over the stairs. However these ran out of juice within a couple hours, so after that we were kind of at the mercy of our own flashlights and the stars.

The washroom also was another experiance entirely. It's just a curtained off corner of the house and only the sides facing into the house are blocked off. Everything else is wide open. So when youre showering, youre basically butt naked and completely exposed to the jungle. There is no netting covering you from the insects that are singing in the canopy, and you get dowsed in the freezing river water hahahah...it's great. You can see a million glittering stars above you too, because there is absolutely no light pollution . It's incredible. At one point the 6 of us were all huddled in the shower gazing upwards cuz it had the best view of the sky. It was so cool.

Anyways, keerit took most of our photos for those days as I didn't have a pocket to carry my phone and it was waaaay too hot to carry a pack, so I've only got a few for now, but I took loads of video, so when I get home I can definatly show you guys the rest!

Oh they're calling our gate! Gotta run. ..Fungus and I are flying back to Phnom Penh for a couple days before we head home, so I'll update you all from there! We've decided to splurge a bit anf get a fancy hotel for our last couple days, so hopefully that'll work out well.

For now I'm just looking forward to a warm shower and flush toilet!

laytas!

Day 9: Luang Prabang: scooters and waterfalls!

So once again another great day...

Keerit, John (Awsome Brit dude from the Falklands) and I rented scooters and headed to the Kuang Si waterfall and Butterfly Sanctuary.

Kuang Si is another series of travertine terraces and waterfalls that pours into the Mekong River. It is about 35km from Luang Prabang and you have to pass through winding hillside roads and sleepy little villages to get there.  The ride in itself was excellent and we took our time winding through the misty roads while avoiding locals and cows along the way. It honestly just reaffirmed my love of riding!

The waterfalls themselves are quite impressive although because of the coolness of the morning we refrained from hopping into the water like we did at the Elephant Village,

After another ride back to Luang Prabang (which was prob a little less leisurely and more us goofing around on the bikes) we headed to Bar Utopia overlooking the Mekong. And man was that place great. Nestled behind a series of guesthouses and hotels, Utopia feels like an Oasis in the heart of Asia. There is a beach volleyball court, yoga area and a series of lounge chairs overlooking the river, propped up by the remains of bombs from the Vietnam War.  It's very cool and very interesting to look at. John and I spent the afternoon chatting about geology and Airplanes and Keerit went and joined a group of locals in a spirited game of Volleyball. Overall it was pretty great!

We then headed towards the night market for a bite to eat, picking up a New York Investment Specialist along the way hahahah.

Honestly guys, travelling in Asia is like that. Even when you're on your own, you meet so many different people along the way that you're never really by yourself.  I mean Keerit and I have met so many cool people of all ages and from all over the world, that we've felt like we're travelling with a group. Weve joined them for drinks and dinner, or a side trip here and there, and for those brief few hours, they become like your best friends. It's such a cool Experiance and truly much more than what the sum of those brief moments would seem. Obviously you eventually go your seperate ways, but ive found that theres never any reason to be disappointed about it, cuz the next stop always brings t somone new into the story. Its kinda sappy to think about, but honestly its the people you meet while travelling that make these experiances as great as they are.

Anyways, fungus and I are headed to Huay Xai  tonight to start our Gibbon Experiance (12 hour bus ride... groan)...the tree houses that we are staying in are very remote and will likely not have a WiFi connection, so this may be the last update for a couple of days until we get back to Phnom Penh. But expect a full report in a couple of days!

For now here are some pictures of John, Me and Keerit as well as a couple Google shots of Bar Utopia (cuz while i was sipping my Pina colada I aparently forgot to take any photos).

Toodles guys

Day 8: Luang Prabang and the Elephant Village

So another Amazing day in Asia! 

Honestly guys, the longer i am here, the better things seem to get, and the less I want to leave. We keep meeting people who are a month or two into thier trips, and we realize that 3 weeks just isn't enough time to do these fabulous countries justice. Theres just so muxh to see and do! But Alas...c'est la vie.

Today Fungus and I booked a Gold experiance at the Elephant Village in Luang Prabang. And it was so great...we started off the day taking a winding dirt road through the Laotion countryside...and it is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen...green covered mountains surrounded by white mist as far as the eye can see and minutes go by without anyone driving past. It's quiet and lovely. You see ponds and dugouts full of water lily next to limestone road cuts and you really do feel like you're in another world!

When we arrived at the Elephant Village we were greated by 4 elephants meandering by these thatched grass huts. It was like someyhing out of Jurassic Park. We were then given a quick run down of how to control the animals before being lifted right onto them ourselves and toured around the village.

The Elephant Village is a sanctuary and hospital geared towards preservation anf protection of the Animals. It's endorsed by Unesco for its humane treatment of the animals and is one of the few places in Laos thar prides itself on its conservation efforts. That part was pretty important to us as there are many elephant tour operators in Asia that are torturous for the animals, and we were dead set against supporting any program like that.

So after taking a quick ride on the elephants (just to get comfortable with the animals) we ventured off to visit a new calf and it's mother on the far side of the compound. We bought a bunch of bananas from a local women, which we fed to the calf...he kept slobbering on my hands with his trunk and was kinda clumsy and overly excited!  It was pretty cute. They then put us back up on the elephants for a stroll down the river. It was pretty incredible to be sitting atop a 10 foot and mammal while our feet splashed in the water!

After lunch they then took us down to the river to bathe the elephants before they were released into the jungle for the night. My guy kept spraying me and smacking his trunk against the water while i scrubbed her behind the ears! I'm not gonna lie, I couldn't stop laughing the whole time!

The elephants are released into the jungle around 2 or 3 pm with thier Mahouts so that they can spend the night foraging in a more natural environment. 

After they departed we hopped into a dugout canoe and went down the Nam Khan river to check out some waterfalls...and honestly guys, the waterfalls were some of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. We climbed up these white travertine terraces into pools of bright green water that were tucked away in the middle of the jungle. It was incredible. I've never seen anything like that before! We played around in the pools for about an hour before we had to head back to the boat to go back to Luang Prabang.

It was such an incredible day. In the evening we ventured out to the night market to grab a bit to eat. Luang Prabang has one of the biggest night markets I've ever seen. It just goes on and on and on! I bought a couple of paper lanterns and some pouches while keerit wanted bracelets. The prices were more than reasonable (once we were done haggling with the vendors) so we were quite content.

Homestly, half the fun of shopping in Asia is haggling with the shop keepers. My brother has it down to an art. He can always get the exact price he wants for an item. In the end if we pay a doller more for something, we're not too worried, but street vendors take pride in fleecing tourists, so we don't really like getting charged much more than that.

Anywhoo I'll leave you guys with a few photos of our Elephant Adventure. Unfortunately my phone ran out of memory halfway through the day so I didn't get any of us bathing the animals (those are on Keerits dslr). But I'll upload more when we get home!

 For now here are some of us with the elephants and the market and one of the terraces (photo credit: Tommy davis)

Day 7: Siem Reap: Seeing the Real Cambodia...Anthony Bordain's got nothing on this!

Wow Wow Wow, What an incredible day. I don't even know where to start.

So Keerit and I had finished seeing the temples of Ankgor Wat etc yesterday, and were a little unsure of how to spend the rest of our time in Siem Reap. We'd consulted the guidebooks and checked out trip advisor, but there was nothing that was really sticking out to us (tried watching a little Cambodian TV, but....well...its not for me). And honestly, after 3 days of Pub Street and the Unesco Sites, we were getting a little tired of seeing all the tourists and tourist traps. I mean, Cambodia and it's people are soooo much more than just the hawkers you see along the side of the road, or the Tuk Tuk drivers that take you from place to place, and there is certainly more to life here then what you'd witness at Ankgor Wat or the Royal Palace.  So we decided to venture off the beaten path a bit and check out what lay beyond the tourist glitz and glam, and check out the real Cambodia.

After an excellent breakfast of Khmer style noodles and  coconut tapioca (nom nom nom), keerit and I went into town and hired a couple of 'Motos' (or motor scooters) and ventured off into the city. And guys....it was amazing...ive never driven a scooter or motor bike before, but after yesterday i could totally see myself getting one! It was just AMAZING! Keerit gave me a quick crash course (on how not to crash), and then we sped off along the river bank. Roads in Cambo are very similar to India where traffic rules are not strictly enfourced and you just have to basically force  your way through intersections or across the road. So you can imagine my initial apprehension as we took off (imagine Jeremy Clarkson in the Vietnam Top Gear Special...it was kind of like that).... but within a few minutes i was comfortable enough and actually enjoying myself

We ended up in a smaller village near Tonle Sap Lake, and stopped to take pictures. There were small children walking in thier school uniforms along the dusty paths, and mothers browsing local markets for vedgetables for the day. I was beautiful. Keerit and I were obviously getting a few stares from the locals, but they were more curious and amused then apprehensive. Cambodians in general are very kind and helpful people. They will always offer help or assistance to anyone who needs it. Case and point, when Keerit's moto started giving us a bit of trouble, almost immediatly somone stopped nearby and offered to help us get it going again. It was pretty nice to see.

Eventually we made our way back to the guest house to meet up with the house Manager Penya. Yesterday we had asked him if he could arrange for us to take a cooking class so that we could learn some of the traditional Khmer techniques and recipeies, and he had put us in touch with Sok, a former tuk tuk driver, and good friend of his.

Sok picked us (Me, Keerit and this awsome American girl we met, Natalia) and drove us to his Village on the outskirts of Siem Reap. It was quite the departure from the Bar scene and hustle of Siem that we had gotten used to, and was all the much better because of it. Sok first took us to his home where we met his wife and brother, another Tuk Tuk driver who had been hurt in a terrible accident last week. More on that later.

So Sok and his wife first took us to thier local market to buy the supplies for our meal. Sok and Penya had chosen a menu of Khmer Curry, Hot basil and pork stirfry, Amok (which is the local specialty and national dish), and Khmer style fresh rolls. So we popped into the market and (with guidance from Sok and his wife) went around collecting our supplies. And guys, the market was unbelievable. Local fisherman and farmers (or thier wives rather) bring thier wares to a crumbling building and you buy your groceries at the different stalls and tables. The fish are still riggling on the ground and the pork is cut straight from the pig (you could still see the head!), so its nothing like you've ever experianced before. My favorite part was buying the coconut milk. A young women hand ground a fresh coconut and  a fresh coconut and then added river water to it, so as to extract the creme. It was amazing to watch. Natalia and I were a little nervous about the cleanliness, but we didn't have any stomach probolems after at all. The cooking process probably killed any lingering bacteria. Keerit was a lot less cautious, snatching up leaves and vedgetables from the stalls just to give them a taste. 

Then we headed back to Sok's house and started prepping the food. It was sooo great! Sok would instruct us on how to chop the vedgetables and prepare the meats and then we would cook it together on thier single element gas powered grill. I did the Fish Amok, Keerit did the pork stirfry and Natalia did the curry. Honestly guys, i wish there was smellivision, cuz the aromas that were coming out of that little stilted house were incredible. And the squeels of laughter from Sok's children just added to the festive ambiance. His nephews and daughters seemed particularly enthralled by keerit's hairy face, teaching him thier games and climbing onto him while Natalia and I cooked. I can't even describe how amazing it was to be in thier house with them. Our faces were sore from smiling so much. And to witness the family dynamic between Sok's family and that of his brother's was lovely. Typically Cambodians live in one house with thier extended families, and parents and cousins will be within walking distance of one another. So throughout the night, his cousins, sisters, and inlaws would pop in just to say hello and have a beer.  It was so fun.

Now onto the food. Cambodian cuisine is fresh and simple but absolutely delicious. Lots of fresh local ingrediants are used, and they typically only cook what is in season. The flavors often consist of chili, with lots of lemongrass, coconut milk, garlic, galangal, fish sauce, sweet and hot basil, peanuts and a fresh Khmer-style green curry paste. The standard accompaniments are usually Ankgor Beer or juice, and meal times are often a social event, with every sip of beer or juice being celebrated with a cheers all around. So we were cheering every 3-4 minutes. It was great. 

When we finally started to to eat, we all sat on the floor around a large tin tray and ate communally from the dishes. Khmer people don't typically mix thier food together on a single plate, but rather take a spoonful of rice and scoop it into the curry or fish pot. So we were digging in with our spoons with Sok and his family. It was really cool.

After dinner we all sat down with a couple beer and told stories from our different homes. Sok's brother up until that point had been laying quietly on the floor of the house, occasionally moving his legs or hands to continue his physio. But once supper was done, he started to tell us the story of what had happened to him. 

A week ago, he had been driving his Tuk Tuk through Siem Reap, when a tourist car charged through an intersection and crashed into him. He was crushed underneath the Tuk Tuk, breaking his back in 5 places. The tourist who had hit him, initiay took him to the hostpital, but refused to pay for more than 1 nights stay and treatment in the hostpital. But given the breadth of his injuries Soks brother had had to stay in the hostpital for at least 2 nights to ensure there was not any lasting issues. So when he was finally taken home, he'd racked up a bill of over 350 dollers US, an astronomical fee given a household income of 10-15 dollers a day. Ws were absolutely shocked at the story especially given the severity of his injuries. As to the 350 doller bill, a couple of Australian NGO doctors came and visited him at home, and payed for his treatments. So now he only need worry about healing.

After dinner, Sok took Keerit, Natalia and I to a local dessert stall for a taste of something sweet. Ill be honest, i have no idea what we ate, but it was delicious. There was some sort of soft fudgy (texture of Barfi!) Cakey thing burried under a scoop of shaved river ice, with condenced coconut milk drizzled overtop. There were also bits of tapioca and banana mixed in. It was so yummy!  Then we stopped at a Beer Garden that was frequented by the locals (as opposed to Pub Street which is typically for tourists) to have a drink or two. That was a difference experiance as well, with Cambodian prostitutes lining hte doorways, and Kareoke  music blaring over loud speakers. Hahahahah...it wasn't unsafe at all, but it was definatly a contrast to what we'd seen before.

We finally got back to the Guest house and crashed. Overall it was an incredible and action packed day! This experiance was of the sort that you'd see Anthony Bordain doing. It was so unique and wonderful that I don't think I'll ever see anything like it again! 

Today keerit and I are catching a flight to Luang Prabang, in Loas. That will be our launching point for the Mahout Adventure and the Gibbon Experiance. So our next post will be from there.

For now, ill leave you all with a couple of photos from our Moto adventure, and our cooking class with Sok and his family!
- k

PS....funny story...we saw the Amazing race contestants zoom past us on Tuk tuks...they had a van and the travel flags and everything...kinda interesting to see! 

Day 6: Ankgor Wat, Ankgor Thom, Bayon, Ta Phrom photos Part I

Yesterday and today we visited the Unesco World Heritage Site of Ankgor Wat. I'll write a proper post later tonight, but for now here are some photos. You'll prob recognize a bunch of the images from the film Tomb Raider, as much of it was filmed here! 

Day 5: Siem Reap, Khmer Barbecue...Night Markets and Pub Street!

So Fungus and I have been sightseeing in Siem Reap the last day or so and it couldnt be more different from Phnom Penh if it tried.

Firstly we checked into the Golden Mango inn, which is a lovely little guest house about 10 minutes away from the Center of town. It's quiet and relaxing, and at 17 bucks a night,  is an absolute steal for what you get. Honestly, in Cambodia, guesthouses are totally the way to go.

But as i was saying, Siem is waaaay more layed back and festive then Phnom Penh, with an amazing night scene and loads of things for tourists to see and do. As you ride along the main throughfare,  you see buffalo grazing along Lotus filled ditches.  Rows of guest houses and markets line the streets and generally the roadways are uncluttered and quiet. The tourist scene here is unrivaled in the rest of Cambodia.

For sups, we hit up a place on Pub Street (which is almost like a Cambodian version of Bourbon Street) and tried out Khmer Barbecue.  I'm not entirely sure if this is a fusion thing or something unique to the region but it was awsome. We met this cool aussie chic who was chowing down on the frog and croc, so we thought we'd giver a go as well. We ordered the Crocodile,  snake, and squid, and then then finished  off with a green mango salad and whole fried Khmer Fish... and guys...it was delicious...the snake especially has a very delicate flavor...sooo good. And with 50 cent beers on tap, you really can't go wrong. I opted for a Passion fruit vodka spritzer and it was just delicious.

Everything you eat is made of the freshest organic ingrediants and it all tastes delightful. In cambodia, noone really buys anything out of season and the majority of produce comes from local markets or backyard gardens. Even the pineapples or coconuts are cut straight from the trees and served to you fresh. Nothing seems to be prepared ahead of time and we havnt had the slightest worry about G I problems (knock on wood).

I'm gonna write an entire post dedicated to Cambodian Food tomorrow or the day after , as Fungus and I (and a Mexican girl we met on Pub Street) are gonna go to a local tuk tuk drivers home to get a cooking lesson. So expect that in a day or two. He's gonna accompany us to the market and then teach us how to make local specialties. We're pretty excited!

Anyways, that's enough for now. I'll leave you with some pictures from Pub Street and the Market.

Day 3: The Killing Fields and S21 - warning some of this post is a bit disturbing

So yesterday we visited Cheoun Ek and Tuol Sleng, also known as the Killing Fields and S-21. I will be the first to admit that it was a very emotional experiance and both Keerit and I felt largely overwhelmed by all that we saw and heard.

For those of you that don't know the history of the Khmer Rouge, here is a little bit of background for you:

The mid-1970s saw the end of the Cambodian civil war and the rise of a new brand of communistic thought brought apon by the leader of the Khmer Rouge, Pol Pot. Pot was a strong believer in the Moaist brand of communism, and  soughts to create a classless society in Cambodia based on an Agrarian model.  So when Cambodia was slowly recovering from the effects of the Vietnam war, Pot rode the wave of anti-monarchial sentiment to establish a party focused on creating a classless society run on Marxist-Leninist princepals. Attacking the capital of Phnom Penh, Pot seized control of the country on the back of his Khmer Rouge party and began a campaign to purge Cambodia of all Western and capitalist influence.  Declaring himself leader of the nation, Pot forbade the use of money, books or any item that indicated differences of class, ability or knowledge.  He outlawed all forms of religion and education, seeing them as a doorway to capitalism. The cities of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh were forcibly and completely evacuated within the span of a single week and all residents were forced to work on communal 'farms' and slave labor camps in the rural areas. Families were split apart, never to come into contact again. Hundreds of thousands would die of starvation, often being forced to work 24 hours a day with little or nothing to eat. 

To imagine what this might have been like, imagine a city like Calgary being completely evacuated within the span of a single week, and then forced into labor camps for the rest of thier lives. Families and individuals would be rounded up seemingly at random and sent to different parts of the country, never knowing where one another were or even if they would ever see them again

After gaining control of the country, and fearing espionage by the west, and subsequent reprisal for thier actions, the Khmer Rouge began executing anyone that might become a threat to thier beliefs and regime. They began targeting anyone who was educated (this included anyone who could speak another language, had attended school beyond a primary level, or even anyone who simply  wore glasses), as well as anyone who had held a position of power in the previous regimes, or anyone who simply did not follow the rules of thier new society. These individuals (and thier extended families) would be rounded up and taken to detention facilities throughout the country where they would then be shackled and tortured for months at a time, often forced to confess to phony charges of treason and espionage. One such facility was Toul Sleng or S-21. After enduring months of torture (of which many did not survive), these 'enemies of the state' would then be taken to a number of locations around the country and 'disposed of'.  

By the end of the 1970s, hundreds of people would be executed daily and buried in mass graves that they themselves would have been forced to dig. These locations are now known as Killing Fields and were the final resting place of over 1million people. Perhaps resting place is the wrong term for these places. The Killing fields were more like the final torture place for the victims of the Khmer Rouge.

In all, over 1/3 of the population of Cambodia was killed in this way by the Khmer Rouge. Thats 1 in 3 people.

One such Killing Field (of which there are hundreds located all over the country) is Cheong Ek.  Cheong Ek was a former fruit orchard that was used as a disposal site by the Khmer Rouge for people that they believed had betrayed the State. Men, women, children and even babies were forced to first dig thier own graves and then were either shot, or (once bullets became too expensive) bludgeoned to death and thrown into the overflowing graves. Children were smashed against trees infront of thier mothers and then dropped into the pits, often while they were still breathing, only to be later buried alive by the Khmer Rouge solidiers.

Cheong Ek, though now a monument to the atrocities commited by the Khmer Rouge,  outwardly displays little of the horrific imagery that once defined this place. As i walked through the site, i become distracted by the birdsong and bright green rice paddies that stretch far into the distance. The current image is almost serene and cheerful. But as you wander through the site, all the while listening to the narratives of survivors, a haunting quality begins to emerge. As you step across the path, your eyes are distracted by a bone fragment sticking out of the ground bleached in the Cambodian sun. And then a few meters away, you notice a red piece of cloth half buried in the soil, fluttering gently in the wind. And that is when it suddenly hits you. That was a piece of one of the victims. It was a horrifying realization. 

The fragments of the victims are occasionally collected and placed into the memorial pagoda, but there are always more. Thousands of people were murdered in that orchard and many have yet to be identified. The central pagoda in the site, created to honor the victims of this place, house thousands of bone fragments and skulls, and is added to continuesly.

It is overwhelming to say the least. Even now i am filled with dread at the thought of what those people went through, and am finding it somewhat difficult to write this post. Needless to say, all the visitors at the Killing Fields remain silent and shocked as they walk through the site.

After that, we headed over to the Tuol Sleng also known as S-21.

S-21 was a detention and torture center where many vicitms of the Khmer Rouge were interrogated before being sent to the Killing Fields. It was previously a highschool for wealthy children but today little of that history remains. The building's walls are covered in rusted barbed wire, and the classrooms display beds with shackles and battery packs that were used to torture the victims. The second part of the site displays the cells in which  the victims were held in, these being bricked "rooms" that were roughly a meter wide by a meter and a half long. It is disturbing walking through those rooms, even on a bright day, and i couldn't really handle staying in them for more than a few moments.

As you pass through the school, you come across room after room of photographs. These are the pictures taken of the victims immediatly after they arrived at S-21. There are hundreds of images lining the walls and display boards, and as you walk past them, you realize that of all the pictures on those walls, only 7 of these people survived the prison. Everyone else was either killed during interogation or later sent to the Killing Fields. It's gives the genocide a very human quality that is often lost in the history books.

By 1979, over 1 third of the Cambodian population was dead as a result of the Khmer Rouge occupation. That is one in four people. Pol Pot would eventually be put under house arrest, but he was never tried for his crimes. The Khmer Rouge was until the mid 80s the officially recognized government of Cambodia. Little was known of the atrocities that were commited in this country until years later, but Cambodia has slowly rebuilt itself into what it is now.

Anywho, Ive thoroughly depressed myself, so i think i should stop there. If you're interested in finding out more about the Khmer Rouge era, i recommend checking out  the film 'The Killing Fields (1984)' or googling Pol Pot and the Cambodian Genocide.

- k

Ps. The photos show the skulls inside the memorial pagoda, the killing tree, some cloth coming out of the ground, the brick cells at S-21 prison, some  of the people that were held at S-21, and the bracelets surrounding one of the mass graves left behind by visitors to the Killing Fields and Keerit standing behind the barbed wire fences that kept the torture victims from commuting suicide.

Day 3 Phnom Penh Antics

So ontop of S21 and Cheong Ek (which i am still waiting to publish) we ventured out into Phnom Penh to check out some of the waterfront and the Royal Palace.

Firstly the palace is really something else. Built in 1866, it replaced an older citadel that was destroyed by the retreating Siamese armyin 1834. It is a series of ornate gold painted buildings encircling a central thrown room that expertly displays traditional Khmer architecture mixed with some European styling. When you enter there are strict rules regarding etticate and dress, and i was required to cover my arms and legs with clothing purchased at the entry way as i was aparently not suitably dressed. Then you wander the grounds trying to get a peak at the individual rooms, although most of these are restricted for entry. The Royal family who continue to live in the palace are highly venerated in Cambodia, with statues and images littering virtually every corner of Phnom Penh. We unfortunately didnt get to take any photos of the throne room etc as that was severely restricted, so ill include a google photo to this post so that you can all get a peak.

In case you were wondering it was about 35 degrees in the palace grounds, so we were just melting.

The gardens are also quite beautiful with images of Buddha interspersed with that of Nagas (hindu snakes) and Hanuman (Monkey god in hinduism). The Cambodians are largely Buddhist in tradition, but there are large regions that are still Hindu as well. The combination of the two traditions really makes Cambodian culture entirely unique and incredible to witness. It is very distinct even amoungst the Asian countries.

Driving around in a Tuk Tuk is probably the best way to see Phnom Penh. You weave in and out of traffic and occasionally get blasts of heat, dust and smells that you'd probably miss out on if you were in a tour bus or hired car. It's actually a lot of fun, and is quickly becoming my favorite way to travel.

After checking out the Palace, Fungus and i headed down to the waterfront to get a drink and relax for a bit. The waterfront is a hub for tourists and you are often assailed by German and Swedish voices over the general hum of Cambodian. Keerit and i popped into a cafe for a drink of grass jelly (i don't even know how to describe it, its like a lychee flavored tea with little aloe chunky bits in it... but its pretty damn tasty and it cuts the heat really well)....but the really cool bit was when were wandering back to the Hostel. We passed this large portable stall on the roadside that was selling heaps of deep fried....bugs...there were tarantulas, snakes, maggots, cockroaches, crabs, and about 10 things i had no idea what they were. Keerit being the adventurous and crazy person that he is, decided that he had to try some of it. So we bought a fried snake and a couple bugs. Keerit munched down on the beatles (which were aparently really tasty) and than attempted the Maggot as i watched apprehensively. The only thing i can say about that is that he turned a slight shade of green (yes...brown people can turn green) and called out that this was the most disgusting thing he'd ever eaten! Hahahahah....I couldn't bring myself to try the bugs, but i nibbled on the snake and it was actually not that bad! The vertabrae have a tendancy to get stuck in your teeth, but otherwise the flavor is okay.  In a pinch, i'd prob eat one again.

Anyway, thats enough out of  me for now. We are headed out to Siem Reap this afternoon, so my next couple posts will likely be from there. I am also working on the one for our time at S-21 and the Killing fields (it accidently got corrupted, so im gonna have to rewrite it this afternoon)

Anywho...have a good one guys!

Below are some photos of Keerit eating the snake, some of the buddhas and flowers at the royal palace and the roadside bug stall!

Enjoy!
- k

Day 3: Breakfast!

Cambodian Noodle soup with chicken! Amazingly light and flavorful with carrots and some sort of unidentified green vegetable, as well as red chili, fish sauce, bean sprouts and green onion. Amazing start to the day!

Day 2: First Impressions of Phnom Penh

We're finally here! We arrived around ten this morning after a loòooong flight with China Airlines (which by the way was actually pretty decent as far as long haul flights go), and despite sort of knowing what to expect when we got here, it was still a bit of a culture shock. Cambodia seems to be an interesting hybrid of India and China . There are people absolutely everywhere, often hawking thier wares or soliciting you for a tuk tuk ride and it can feel a bit overwhelming at first, but you quickly get your Asia legs and just jump into the melee.

My bro was determined to hit the ground running, so after depositing our bags at Me Mates Villa hostel (basic but tolerable), we caught a tuk tuk and  ventured off to the Russian Market. ..and man was that place awsome. You can buy just about anything here! Stalls carrying purses and jewelry separate fruit and meat displays, in a jumble of jabbering shoppers and determined sellers. You don't even know where to look! There are fruits and meats that you don't even know the names of in the hands of shopkeepers who thrust them in front of your face so you can get a glimpse of the freshness and desirability. I saw mounds of Rambutan and Longon sitting amongst apples and cherimoya (Yaaaaaaay!) And even came across what appears to be a white pomegranate (we bought one but havnt opened it yet)   The one thing I found most surprising though is that almost all the business here is conducted in US dollars. And it's not a touristy thing...Cambodians generally use US dollers in thier daily dealings as well...the Riel (thier local currency) is typically only used as change (which isn't that surprising given an exchange rate of 4000riel/1$. So it's a good thing we brought lots with us!

After the market  we decided to grab a bite at a roadside stall (chosen because it was overflowing with locals) and sat down for lunch. In a place like this, you don't so much look at a menu and choose something to eat, but rather the owner comes up and tells you there is chicken and rice available and you only get that! Hahaha we were like, ya why not! And man was it tasty! I hadn't quite gotten my appetite back (still too exhausted from the flight)  but keerit gobbled it down....the couple spoonfuls I had though we're excuisite! Sweet and soy flavored with a carrot fish sauce drizzle. ..yum!

Later on the  way back to the hostel we happened upon a young women selling deep fried frogs. And Not just the frog legs like you mighta had in a french bistro, we're talking straight up full on frog...head...mouth...everything!  So obviously keerit couldn't resist! Hahaha and I'm not kidding when I say it tastes like chicken! It has a slightly muddy flavor but overall it was decent.. in a pinch; I'd totally eat it again!

Hahaha anyway I can barely keep my eyes open now so I'm prob gonna sign off there. In rhe morning were headed to S21 and the killing fields which were some of the torture chambers and internment camps of the Khmer Rouge. Expect a long update tomorrow...for now I'll leave you with a shot of us in a tuk tuk...and me eating a frog!

- k

Ps I'm sorry if this is a tad jumbled...I'm currently hiding under a sheet writing this on my phone so as not to wake me hostel mates...needs must!